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Yosemite Gear Guide

This will be my fifth trip

to Yosemite but the first time attempting a big wall in “The Valley”. From the first time I saw Yosemite’s sheer granite faces I wondered if I would ever be a good enough climber to attempt a multi-day route on one of the valleys famous big walls. Everything fell into place for a friend and I to give it a go this year. Yosemite Valley is 1,254 miles from Boulder, CO and it will take us around 20 hours to drive there, as long as Tioga Pass is open. If the pass is closed tack on another 5 hours to drive around Yosemite National Park since the entrance is on the east side. We chose October to attempt a wall because the weather is generally cooler and the tourist traffic in the park has died down a bit. However the first winter storm usually arrives in late October or early November.

John Klooster Store manager / Montbell Boulder Store

1st objective: Lurking Fear 5.7 C2F


Located on the west side of El Capitan, 19 pitches long with 400’ of slab to the top, mostly aid climbing on the bottom with more free climbing on the top half. Average amount of time to climb this route is 4 days.

2nd objective: The Prow 5.6 C2F


Located on Washington Column, 12 pitches long, mostly aid climbing with very little free climbing. Average amount of time to climb this route is 3 days.

*Both of these routes are considered Big Wall routes which by definition is a steep multi-pitch climb that takes most people more than one day to climb.

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Yosemite trip report


The plan was to leave Lee Vining early Sunday morning and make a leisurely 2 hour cruise through Tuolumne to Yosemite Valley, spend the rest of the day getting settled and maybe do some climbing after being in the car for two days. We woke early to rain and heavy clouds. We checked the road closure site to make sure Tioga Pass was open. After some coffee and packing the car we headed to get some gas before making our way to the park. As we turned onto Tioga Pass the road sign was lit up saying the pass was closed! The store was full of people with anxious looks on their faces and we realized that a lot of people were counting on the pass to be open. We found out we had missed getting through the gate by only 45 minutes.
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GEAR LIST

clothing


A

 Merino Wool Plus Action T-shirt Men's

This will be my next to skin layer for the entire time we are on the wall. Wool is a great material for any condition since it is temperature regulating material. It also insulates when damp and dries quickly.

B

 Trail Ridge Convertible Pants

Since we will have our harnesses on for multiple days in a row and temperatures will vary from the 30’s to the 70’s I chose the convertible pants for the ease of zipping the legs off. The stretch and gusseted crotch make these a versatile and comfortable pant for climbing in.

C

 Thermawrap Sport Vest

I have been using various versions of the Thermawrap Vest for many years and I like this version best. Vests are great because they keep your core warm while giving you unrestricted movement with your arms. The stretch side panels are a key feature because they allow for breathability and help this garment move with you.

D

 Stocking cap

E

 Merino Wool Plus Action Zip

The Action Zip is my next layer to add warmth to my clothing system. This is the same material as the Action T but a long sleeve, high neck, quarter zip version.

F

 Thermawrap Sport Parka

The Thermawrap Sport Parka will be my belay parka and also to sleep in to add to the warmth of my sleeping bag.

G

 Crag Jacket

I am excited to use the Crag Jacket for the in between temperatures and to help block the wind. The durability and stretch of this lightweight soft shell makes it the perfect piece while climbing.

H

 Dyna Action Parka

This is my durable, waterproof, and windproof outer layer. I can layer all of the previous listed items and put this on over the top to create a functional and versatile clothing system for any conditions that we may encounter.

I

 Wool socks

J

 Crag Hopper approach shoes

- Synthetic underwear

Bivy Gear


K

 Burrow Bag #3

Average nightly lows this time of the year in Yosemite are in the 30’s. This bag is rated at 30 degrees’ which should be warm enough but since we will be hauling all of our gear with us, weight is a definite factor. We also must bring synthetic in case the weather deteriorates and moisture becomes an issue.

-Double Portaledge
-Portaledge rain fly
-Bivy bag
-Sleeping pad
-Canister stove
-Poop tube: LNT ethics, carry all human waste off the wall

Climbing Gear


L

 Zero Point Medium Chalk Bag

-Harness
-10mm lead rope
-9mm static haul rope
-2 sets of stoppers
-1.5 sets of offset micro nuts
-3 each cams to 1”
-2 each cams to 4.5”
-1 sky hook, 1 grappling hook, 1 talon hook
-2 narrow cam hooks
-12 quick draws
-20 spare carabiners
-15 spare locking carabiners
-Many shoulder and double shoulder length slings
-Auto locking belay device
-Tube style belay device
-Helmet
-Zero Point Medium Chalk Bag
-Fifi hook
-Nut tool
-Ascenders
-Aiders
-2 daisy chains
-3/4 finger gloves

Hauling Gear



-125 Liter haul bag
-90 Liter sub haul bag
-Hauling device

Food and Water



-3-4 liters of water per person per day
-2 pounds of food per day, mainly dry, no cook, high calorie foods